Les Halles, Montmartre and the bus system

9/9/11 Today was day six and I think six days would have been enough for this trip.  I’ve seen the major sights, walked all over Paris, and I feel done, tired.  Today the plan was to go east to Les Halles, la Marais, and le Georges Pompidou Center.  Which I did partially.  I walked to Les Halles which is a huge mall built in place of the ancient food market.  It’s a mall – we have those all over the US.  I got a little lost in the area because there is a great deal of construction going on.  So I headed back to my hotel without incident.  Then, since it was only about 11:00, I decided I had plenty of time to learn the bus system and go to Montmartre, which I did.  I bought 2 bus tickets and took the 95 (that’s the quatre-vingt-quinze – 4 x 20 + 15).  Again I got a little lost.  Many of the streets don’t seem to have signs, though I finally found where they are located.  There are plenty of signs about everything, but street signs are on the corner building.  If there are street signs.  After getting off the bus, I just headed up since Sacre Coeur and Montmartre – Tertres Plaza – are at the top of the hill.  I managed to get there, but first I found a nice little restaurant – Moulin de la Galette – for lunch.  I had a fish dish with vegetables (didn’t eat the squid).  Very good meal again.  Then on up the hill.  By the time I got to the Plaza where all the artists and cafes are, it was raining.  Fortunately I had brought my umbrella.  I did say NO emphatically to a couple of artists who wanted to do my caricature/portrait.  Walked around the Plaza and I’m done.  I went into the chapel and just sat still for a while, then went back out when I heard music.  A street performer, singing old-style French songs.  I listened for a while then moved on down the hill.  All the guide books say Montmartre, especially Tertres Plaza, is so touristy and commercialized and I found that to be true.  I do enjoy the street performers though.  Also saw a mime – very good mime – because at first I thought she was a statue.  Going down, down, down the hill, again no street names, just go down till I get to Blvd Clichy. Le Moulin Rouge is at the bottom of the Montmartre hill along with all the sex shops.  I couldn’t find the bus stop for number 95, but a French gentleman, seeing my confusion, gave me directions in French:  allez a droite, tournez au gauche, c’est pres de la cineme.  More walking.  But I found it – thank goodness I have studied and retained some French. 

Back at the hotel, I needed to rest.  Didn’t I mention that I’m tired?  And every meal does not have to be a full, three course event.  Not hungry.   About 6:00pm I went back out, got a snack at Tea by The.  And then waited for the city to light up.  I sat in the plaza at the entrance to the Louvre by the pyramids and fountains.  There were so many people there just milling around, hanging out like me.  I offered to take pictures of several couples so they could both be in the shot.  Eventually, I saw the Eiffel Tower in the distance all lit up, but the pictures didn’t come out good so I deleted them.   Finally went back to my room about 8:30pm.  Tired, almost forgot to write my day. 

Tomorrow, back to la Rive Gauche??  See what’s happening there.  Things do happen there.  Just people watch.  Maybe take my netbook and write.  Pretend I’m Edith Wharton.  Go see the Roman ruins up close.  Good to have a plan – so I can go off it.  C’est tout.

Just a note about chic but casual:  I have seen chic but uncomfortable, and lots of casual, but not chic.  And shoes must be flat, not low-heeled, FLAT.  That’s not for style but for comfort.

Another note: obviously my hands /wrists are ok, nothing broken or sprained.  Good to go.

Finally, the Louvre

9/8/11 Another nice day with some pleasant surprises and only one faux pas.  After petit dejeuner dans l’hotel, I went to the Louvre.  The admission was only 10e which was my first pleasant surprise today.   Bien sur, la musee et tres grande.  I started on the ground level & made it to the Venus de Milo which is an anonymous creation, and really amazing.  Even without her arms, this sculpture is so serene and elegant.  Tres belle.  Then I went up to the 2^nd level where I saw many paintings – can’t name them, but enjoyed the experience.  I also managed to view the Mona Lisa, the Winged Victory, Rubens, Michaelangelo, Leonardi di Vinci, and so many others that I had not heard of.  I had  a lovely lunch in Café Robespierre Angelique of quiche, salad, and chocolate tarte.  I left the museum about 4:30 or 5:00 after buying some cards as gifts and a book for myself. Before I went to my room for a little rest, I went to the little boutique a rue Moliere and bought Anne un bijou.  Then I went out to la Rive Gauche to see what was going on.  Things happen a la Rive Gauche.  I found the little jewelry store I had visited last night.  This time I chose a better ring, one whose symbol means meditation and it only cost 20e (instead of the star ring that cost 30e).  I bought it and am very happy with my purchase.  I was ready to head back towards “home.”  Along the way I stopped at a sidewalk book display.  I bought Heidi in French for 20c!  So I can practice reading French without the shock of stumbling on reading scenes of beheadings and kinky sex.  I got to Place Saint Michel with its monument to the freeing of Paris from the Nazis.  I stopped to take a picture and heard music.  There in the Plaza was a young man playing his original compositions on the piano.  Beautiful free concert in the Plaza.  I bought his CD and am so excited to take this treasure home.  I listened to him play until he closed his performance, then continued my way home.  I stopped at a restaurant for a little bite.  I only wanted to try the foie gras which I ordered.  It was different than I expected – sort of gelatinous, cold, firm.  And  when I didn’t order a full meal, the waiter got disinterested in serving me, which wouldn’t have been a problem if I had had cash on me.  But I had used all my daily ration of cash and needed to pay with a credit card.  Finally, after a long wait, a cashier came & took my charge and I could leave. I didn’t leave a tip because the service was not good.  So the experience was negative on both sides.  But the day had so many gifts and delights, that I can’t hang onto the one negative incident.

I have completed the must-do items of my Paris experience.  I have three more days here.  So tomorrow I will go to Les Halles and la Marais.  They are within walking distance and there are several museums in the area.  Saturday, I plan to buy 2 bus tickets to go to and from Montmartre.  Sunday I will return to les Iles.  And one evening I have to stay out past dark to see the Eiffel Tower lit up.  That’s the plan. We’ll see.

Versailles and Musee D'Orsay

9/7/11  Wow!  A day that went according to plan.  I got up early, had petit dejeuner, and got ready for my tour pick-up for Versailles.  There was a little drama while I waited.  Some street guy came into the lobby and provoked our hotel staff.  The two men were yelling at each other, insulting, and the crazy man even pushed the hotel concierge and I almost got shoved.  Police were called, the combatants were pulled apart.  That Latin temper! 

Versailles was lovely though really not my taste in any way.  Way too opulent.  I would have been a revolutionary back then, a peasant not royalty.  Which would you have been?  The gardens are beautiful.  Our van was all Americans who are so much more friendly than internationals.  We all took pictures.  Our guide was a very nice young woman who knows everything about the Sun King and his successors, the Revolution, and French history in general.  The town of Versailles is very nice too.  Quieter than Paris, but old, well-maintained, lovely, lots of trees, old brick/stone streets, and trop cher.

After the Versailles tour, I ate the rest of my cheese with bread (just a quick bite in my room).  Then I walked over to Musee D’Orsay and spent the whole afternoon in the museum.  Of course my favorites are Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh.  But I was exposed to some artists I hadn’t seen before.  I took sit-down breaks, then saw another room I had missed.  And I bought souvenirs – a book about the museum for myself and lots of boxes of cards as gifts.  Lovely afternoon.

And I had enough energy to walk over to St Germain des Pres, find Procope Restaurant, and have a     lovely dinner at the restaurant where Benjamin Franklin dined when he was in Paris!  Since I had saved on lunch, I splurged on dinner – three courses, salad, beef and mashed potatoes, and crème brulee.  Delicious!  I had a nice walk home.  A hot bath.  Winding down. 

The desk clerk told me I had a message: my friend cannot come into town tomorrow, but wants my email address.  I’m not really surprised.  She is busy with her life, moving back to Paris after eight years in LA, enrolling her son in college.  It was nice of her to call and tell me, she could have just not shown up.   So tomorrow I will spend the day at the Louvre.  (I hope the museum has a lunch venue, I will need a food break during the day.)  C’est tout pour aujourdui.

The Islands in the Seine

9/6/11 Quelle jour!  Days just don’t go the way I plan them.  I had mon petit dejeuner dans l’hotel.  Then I set out walking to Ile de la Cite.  My plan was to cover the island, climb to the top of Notre Dame, then go on to Ile St. Louis, then to la Rive Gauche to find the little walk-only streets, then have dinner at Procope (where Ben Franklin used to dine).  It was very cold & windy this morning, so it took more energy to walk against the wind.  I stopped at a café for un café.   Then on to Notre Dame.  I was looking up at the top of the cathedral to see people up there where I planned to climb.  I didn’t see the low curb & stepped off and fell, skinning my right hand and left knee.  People helped me up and pointed out that the hospital was around the corner.  So, I went to the emergency room.  The staff there are tres gentils.  I was seen by a nurse and a doctor.  Diagnosis was just skinned palm and knee.  Palm cleaned & bandaided.  And released to climb to the top of Notre Dame.  So that I did.  But not all the way to the top, just to the second level.  I took pictures of the views of Paris from the viewing platform.  Then down to walk in the park.  I had taken my bread & cheese, so I had a little picnic in Square Jean XXIII.  Lovely.  Then I went to Ile St. Louis for a little walk around, crossed over to la Rive Gauche.  But I was tired, lots of sitting in parks, so I started back towards my hotel.  Another Paris surprise!  There on the bridge was a film crew, in the process of filming a scene!  I watched for a while, took a few pictures, then wandered back to the hotel.  After a little rest, I went out again to mail my last postcard (to myself), buy some bandaids, eat a nice salmon salad at Café Royal near my hotel.  It was very good.  Came back to the room, took a hot bath.  I have to accept that I cannot go all day & into the night.  I am exhausted.  And now both my wrists hurt a lot.  Tomorrow I have a tour of Versailles & truly hope to go to Musee D’Orsay in the afternoon.  I just hope some ibuprofen takes away the pain in my wrists, so I don’t have to go back to the hospital. 

Paris is such a young, energetic city.  I’m tired.  Actually Paris is extremely old, so much history, but I’m still tired.  Actually Paris is so old and still young and energetic.  I think it has always been on the cutting edge of creativity, art, literature, architecture.  New, modern sculptures and art immersed in the center of old architecture.  The Louvre is in the old palace built over 500 years ago.  And the entrance to the museum is a group of modern glass pyramids.  Old and new in the same space.  Paris is not stuck in its past. 

City Tour and Boat Tour

9/5/11  Much  better day today.  Amazing how sleep helps change the attitude.  Got up early today to go on a bus tour of the city.  Petit dejeuner ici dans l’hotel.  Then met the tour guide.  He had three other pickups, then our tour began.  We drove by so many palaces, government buildings, monuments I can’t name them all.  I took pictures of some of them.   Our first stop was Montmartre and Sacre Coeur.  I took some pictures of the view from the hill and of the exterior of the church (pictures not allowed inside the church).  Then I walked over to Place Tertre to see the artists.  And I let myself get taken by a street caricaturist (for 20E).  I felt really stupid about it.  Oh, well.   Then we stopped at Notre Dame, which was lovely.  Our tour guide took my picture for me in front of the cathedral.  Our last stop was for photos of the Eiffel Tower.  One of the more interesting sites was the Roman ruins in the Latin Quarter.  I really don’t feel the need to go up in the Eiffel Tower.  There are so many more interesting places to go.  And I really would prefer to see the rooftops of Paris from the top of Notre Dame.  After our tour, I bought a delicious brown bread, a block of reblochon fruitier cheese and a bottle of water, walked over to Jardins Tuilleries and had my picnic.  Then I found myself walking down Champs Elysses to the Arc de Triomphe (which we had driven by several times earlier).  I got a little lost getting from there back to the Eiffel Tower for my boat tour, but I found it eventually.  I had thought I’d do the boat tour at night when la cite is lit up, but decided to go at 4:30.  It was a nice trip & went a little further east than I plan to go, so I saw a little new territory.  It was a pleasant ride.  And every tour gives a little more information about Paris history.  I walked back along the river after the boat tour.  Had another public restroom experience.  This one was free. It was so modern, opened & closed the door automatically after each person, with a thorough cleaning between users.  Of course I took a picture!  I didn’t see a restaurant I wanted to eat at as I walked back from Tour L’Eiffel to the Louvre.  So I ate at Brasserie Louvre, very near my hotel and had a delicious shrimp salad.  Back to write about my day’s adventures & rest my hurting hips.  Lovely day.   Tomorrow I plan to go to Ile de la Cite again & take my time there.  And hopefully I’ll have energy to go to Procope in St. Germain des Pres for dinner

Mon premier jour en Paris

9/4/11  Before getting off the plane the lady sitting next to me opened a conversation, mostly in English.  She’s French, but had lived in LA for 8 years.  We made a plan to meet up on Thursday at 10:30 at my hotel.  That is something to look forward to!  So maybe I did make a friend on the plane. 

Customs was so easy, took less than 5 minutes, no lines, look at the passport, ok, move on.  My baggage made it on the same plane.  I managed, with a little help from pleasant helpful people, to call the shuttle service, which showed up after a little longer wait than the 10 minutes I was told.  So far, so good.  The  drive from the airport showed a large sprawling, 21^st century city, with ugly square buildings, graffiti, etc.  But we did get to the older part of the city, where the shuttle driver seemed lost.  After much going in circles, he finally started dropping us off at our hotels.  Mine, the Pavillon Louvre Rivoli, sounds very grand but it is my first disappointment.  It is very small, my room is tiny and a little shabby.  No air conditioning, which means open windows letting in all the street sounds and rain.  And it did rain in 3 bursts today.  Which is truly no big deal.  I had a full day of walking and seeing and eating and trying to speak French.  (And this was after really no sleep on the plane, but I’m trying to get on the local time.)

What did I do my first day in Paris?  First, I was too early for hotel check-in, so I left my large bag at the hotel and explored my neighborhood.  There is a huge statue of Moliere at the end of rue Moliere and the Comedie Francaise is around the corner.  A little plaza – Plaza Colette – is right there with a statue and fountain and several little restaurants.  (Here's where I'm trying to insert a photo of the statue of Moliere, but I haven't figured out how.)  I had lunch at Bistrot Café Royale, my first meal in France, escargots and a salad.  All the sidewalk seating is facing the street, so we can people watch while eating.  Loved the escargots by the way, dipped my baguette in the olive oil concoction, mmm so good and garlicky.  After going back to the hotel to check in, I went out to explore on foot a little further.  The Palace and the Louvre are within a few blocks of my hotel, but I didn’t go into the Louvre today.  I went on across the Pont Royale and into the Sixth Arrondissement – la Rive Gauche.  I ended up walking huge amounts of the Rive Gauche.  Just when I was getting too tired & discouraged, I heard music.  There in front of L’Eglise St. Germain des Pres  was a jazz band.  And across the street was Les Deux Magots, famous restaurant & haunt of Hemingway et al.  I was very tired & thirsty, so I stopped there, got a bottle of water, people watched, listened to the music, and refreshed myself.  And watched the rain fall.  By the time I finished my bottle of Pellegrino and felt better, the rain had stopped.  So again I went out exploring, and found les jardins Luxembourg.  Another little gift.  Tennis courts where a tournament was in progress.  Gardens where fruit trees (apples & pears) were espaliered in interesting fashion (I took pictures).  Men playing boules (I think it’s called).  I sat and people watched again, but was so very tired. I almost fell asleep on the bench, but I needed to pee too.  I imagined people finding this old woman passed out on a bench in the park, covered in pee. That image inspired me to go to the public restroom in the park – cost of 40 centimes.  Then, since I was so tired, I walked back towards the river, crossed the Pont des Artes which is covered with locks!  (Another picture)  I had an omelette at the Café Marly which is attached to the Louvre.  Back at my room, I was so discouraged, I wanted to get on the next plane & go home.  Everything about Paris seemed flat, plain, boring, disappointing, not worth the effort & expense.  I needed to sleep.  So I did. 

All those pictures I took, I have to learn how to share them - liven up my story.  Who out there can tell me how to load photos from my computer to the blog???  Help! 

Bon soir.

On My Way

Huit Jours en Paris 2011

I was without internet connection while actually in Paris.  So much for the world wide web.  Or maybe I just don't know how to work it.  But I did document the experience & will post my comments day-by-day as if it weren't ten days later.  This first comment is from the air en route to Paris.

9/3/11  My plane left LA today at 1:00pm PDT.  It’s an 11 hour flight and we lose 9 hours, so right now it’s about 4:00am Paris time and my body cannot sleep.  I want to document the trip every moment.  Arriving at Tom Bradley International terminal, I found the right line to wait in.  I was surrounded by real French speaking real French so very fast!  I’m afraid I won’t have the courage to try mon Francais en Paris.  Eh, bien.  Checking into the airline was very easy and very courteous.  Then I had several hours to wait.  So I bought a café au lait and a scone.  I immediately spilled coffee on my white shirt – a shirt I will be wearing for 2 days!  I managed to sponge out the coffee in the restroom.  The airplane is full of les Francais, I haven’t spoken to any Americans or other real English speakers.  So I wouldn’t say I’m making friends on the flight.  Oh, by the way, international flights offer so many amenities that American flights don’t offer.  Free, unlimited movies, two full meals without extra charge, pillow and blanket, a care package including eyemask, earplugs, socks.  I was told on one US airline, when I asked for a blanket, to bring my own next time. 

I had thought I would go to the Louvre as soon as I arrive at my hotel.  But with a sleepless night behind me, I think not.  I may just walk around the jardins Tuilleries and maybe wander over to la Rive Gauche.  And ask the concierge if they can “achete pour moi un billet de musees  pour deux jours.”  And then I can go to the Louvre when I am better rested.  Of course, I checked the weather online before I left LA and saw that it is supposed to be raining in Paris on Sunday.  Not the best weather for walking in a garden.  Eh, bien.  C’est la vie.  C’est tout pour maintenant.